Things to Do in Leiden When It Rains (Which Is Often)
Let us be honest about the Dutch sky. It is going to rain. The question is not if, but when, and how wet. The good news: the walking route saw it coming, centuries ago.
You came to Leiden to walk. The clouds came to Leiden because it is Tuesday. Or Thursday. Or any day, really. This is a city built by people who considered horizontal rain a personality trait. So here are seven dry answers, all on or next to the walking route, plus the essential knowledge of where to hide with coffee.
1SieboldHuis: a whole hidden country, indoors
An elegant canal house on the Rapenburg, filled by a German doctor who traded medicine for knowledge in sealed 1820s Japan: plants, prints, maps, animals, an entire hidden country, object by object. Until the maps got him banished, but that is stop 3's story. The house is now a museum, and a beautiful one. Entry ticket required. Rain completely defeated.
2Hortus Botanicus: rain for the plants, glass for you
One of the oldest botanical gardens on Earth, where Clusius raised some of the first tulips in Dutch soil. Fair warning: a garden is mostly outdoors. But the glasshouses are warm, dry and full of things that should not grow this far north, and the garden in the rain has a mood the sunshine visitors never see. Entry ticket required. Bring the right coat and call it atmosphere.

3The Pieterskerk: nine centuries of dry
The great church of the Pilgrims. Outside: the square where justice, faith and death once shared an address. Inside: quiet, height, and some remarkable graves. John Robinson the Pilgrims' pastor. Boerhaave the physician all of Europe wrote to. And one unmarked family grave the book will point you to. Churches are the original rain shelters. This one has had nine centuries of practice.
4Hooglandse Kerk: the light-flooded giant
Leiden's two great churches glare at each other across the rooftops. That is not a metaphor, it is the building programme. This one was designed to out-grand the Pieterskerk, and was never finished. What stands is a Gothic giant with one of the most light-flooded interiors in the Netherlands. On a grey day the light inside is honestly unfair.
5Koornbrug: a bridge with a roof, built for exactly this
In 1825 Leiden roofed an entire bridge so the grain traded on it, and the merchants trading it, would stay dry. It still works. Stand under the 200-year-old roof, watch the rain hit the Nieuwe Rijn, eat something from the market on a Saturday. The centuries collapse into each other, and you are not even damp. Free. No ticket. Just a bridge that saw the weather coming.

6Museum Boerhaave: science in the old plague house
The national museum of science and medicine, housed in the former Caeciliagasthuis: Leiden's plague house. The anatomy theatre stands on the exact spot where plague patients once lay. Few museums in the world are so precisely placed, and few are this interesting about it. Entry ticket required. Hours of dry, disturbing, excellent content.
7De Valk: climb inside the postcard
A seven-storey tower mill from 1743, the last of the ring that crowned the ramparts, and a working museum. Millers still set the sails. You climb ladders past the millstones to the stage, and from up there the whole rainy city lies glittering below you. The best view in Leiden, earned one ladder at a time. Coming down, as generations of millers' children learned, is the hard part.

And the coffee
When the rain wins, retreat to stop 15's neighbourhood. The terraces along both banks of the Nieuwe Rijn are the city's dining room; on market days, the market itself is the menu. Coffee, a stroopwafel, the sound of water under a roofed bridge. There are worse ways to lose an hour. The walk will wait. It is patient like that.
The rainproof version of the walk
The ebook lives on your phone: no wet pages, all 31 stops, every map. Duck between the seven dry stops above and let the weather do its worst. €2.99.
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